Ayurvedic "Grease"

Formula:

Phase 1

Coconut Oil   13.5%
Castor Oil   24%
Shea Butter 6.7%
Cocoa Butter 6.7%
Beeswax     3% (optional)
Vitamin E Oil 1%
Bringraj Oil  20%
Almond Oil Infusion(Nettle,Hibiscus, Brahmi, & Amla)  23.9%

Phase 2
Rosemary Extract  .3%
Tea Tree Oil   .3%
Lavender EO  .6%



Instructions:

1. Make Herbal Infusion (1 cup dried/powedered herbs and 8oz Carrier Oil)
1. Using a double boiler gently heat the oil and herbs for 2 hours, stirring occasionally with stainless steel spoon    Make sure heat is low so as not to cook the herbs and oil, thus causing rancidity.
2. Let cool and then strain infusion and place in cobalt glass jar, label with date. ( Keep Refrigerated & Should last 3 monthes)
3. Measure out each oil using a digital scale and place into stainless steel bowl.
1. For example, jojoba oil 23.4% of 4oz would = .94oz. 
4. Measure out Beeswax
5. Place Oil mixture into double boiler and add beeswax.  Let mixture heat on medium until beeswax melts.  Not too hot though
6. Measure out each part of phase 2 and place into stainless steel bowl
7. Let oil mixture cool a little and add Vitamin E Oil, Stir
8. Add Oil & beeswax mixture to Phase 2, Stir
9. Add EO if desired
10. Allow mixture to cool and place into sterilized jar.  Label with date. 

Avoid getting water into mixture this has no preservative. 

Ayurvedic Butter Pomade ( Hair & Body)

I got inspiration for this recipe from my Ayurvedic Shea Butter Hot Oil Treatment post and going through my stash and finding all these un-used herbs and oils.  This recipe can just be used for fun to switch up your usual butter recipes, on occasion!  I usually don't like to use shea butter on my hair, but I'm going to give it another try since I might have been a little heavy handed before in application and as you know, a little goes a long way with Shea butter, lol!


Formula:

Phase 1

Coconut Oil  5%
Castor Oil  5%
Shea Butter 60%
Mango Butter 3.7%
Bringraj Oil  10%
Jojoba Oil Infusion (Nettle,Hibiscus, Brahmi, & Amla)  15%

Phase 2
Vitamin E Oil 1%
Rosemary Extract  .3%
Other Oils for making an Infusion: Coconut Oil, Olive Oil, Almond Oil, Grapeseed Oil', Sunflower Oil, Flax seed oil, Sesame oil

Instructions:

1. Make Herbal Infusion (1 cup dried/powedered herbs and 8oz Carrier Oil)
1. Using a double boiler gently heat the oil and herbs for 2 hours, stirring occasionally with stainless steel spoon    Make sure heat is low so as not to cook the herbs and oil, thus causing rancidity.
2. Let cool and then strain infusion and place in cobalt glass jar, label with date. ( Keep Refrigerated or in cool area)
2. Measure out each oil using a digital scale and place into stainless steel bowl.
1. For example, jojoba oil 23.4% of 4oz would = .94oz. 
3. Place Oil mixture into double boiler and add butters.  Let mixture heat on low until butters melt.  Not too hot though
4. Measure out each part of phase 2 and place into stainless steel bowl
5. Let oil mixture cool a little and add Vitamin E Oil, Stir
6. Add Phase 2, Stir
7. Allow mixture to cool and place into sterilized jar.  Label with date. 

I would make small amounts, especialy due to the herbs. My formulations are for my fun and have not been tested for sell, etc.  Please practice GMP and avoid getting water in pomade to avoid mold!

Enjoy!

DIY Deep Conditioner Ingredients

Since I have eliminated "products" from my hair regimen, I am currently on a search to figure out a deep conditioner for after my henna treatments.  I tried a recipe last week and I was not at all enthusiastic about it.  My hair was not dry , but it was a little frizzier than usual, so I'm unsure what I'm going to do; stop henna treatments or do more research?

Last weeks trial recipe:

• Aloe Vera Gel
• Raw African Honey
• EVOO
• Shea Butter
• Coconut Oil

This sounded good, but it didn't give me that Boom Boom POW! feeling.

In my brief research most peoples diy deep conditioners contain protein, but it's not recommended to use this after a henna treatment.  Will a simple hot oil treatment suffice??? idk


Anyhoo, Here is a list of popular natural deep conditioner ingredients.  These ingredients can be used in several different variations depending on your preference and what is available to you. 

• Ripe avocado protein
• Ripe Banana/ Banana Baby Food
• Raw Honey
• Aloe Vera Juice/Gel
• Mayonnaise protein
• Coconut Milk protein
• Coconut Cream protein
• Egg protein
• Yogurt protein
• Carrier Oils/Butter
• avocado oil
• coconut oil
• Shea Oil
• Shea Butter
• EVOO
• Avocado oil
• Wheat Germ Oil
• Find great article about Oils, Water and deep conditioners here

These are just some of the ingredients out there that can be used and feel free to share any of your suggestions. 

Another simple way to create your own deep conditioner is to simply add honey and EVOO to your favorite conditioner and call it a day. ( I'm so tempted to buy me the closest to natural conditioner I can find and calling it a day)

Enjoy and Remember to share, I am always open to suggestions!

More Clay Washing!

I know I have posts about Clay Washing and Hair Detox, but here is an updated recipe of mine and ways to personalize your own recipes!

Ingredients
·         2 Tbsp  Bentonite Clay
·         2 Tbsp  Rhassoul Clay ( Great Conditioner!)
·         10 drops  Lavender, Peppermint  and Lemongrass EO (optional) 
·         1 tbsp Aloe Vera Gel 
·         1 tsp ACV 
·         1 tsp Honey
·         Water -mix until you get desired consistency

Mix all the ingredients in a glass bowl (metal will mess with the natural minerals in clay)

• Apply to damp hair and massage into scalp.
• Cover w/ shower cap and let sit on your hair for 15-20 minutes ( do not let it dry)
• Rinse

Ways to personalize this recipe:

• Use Aloe Vera Juice/Hydrosols/Coconut Milk/ Herbal Infusion(leaves, flowers)/Decoction(roots, bark) in place or in combination with water
• Add Herbal Extracts
• Add 1-2 tsp of light oil ( sesame, avocado, jojoba)
• Add veggie glycerin in place of honey

Use any left overs for a facial!!

I prefer my mix to be thicker, but some like a more watery consistency so play around with the amounts of clay used until you find your desired mix!

Enjoy!

Get Started Mixing!!

I wrote this post as guest post on another blog, but I thought I should put it here for my followers!

There are three simple ways to learn about DIY natural hair care:

1.      Books
          a.       To get started making your own hair products purchase books about natural skin and hair care. (the expensive ones I got through inter-library loan)  My favorite books included a glossary about each ingredient and their benefits and shelf life.  Some books main focus is just recipes, while others explain the structure of hair, hair needs, etc.  There is no one book unfortunately, trust me I searched, but a few will help.
        From there you will learn the basic procedures of certain formulations and how hair products were made.  One of the biggest formulas that are used in hair care is emulsions (water + emulsifying wax + oils).

2.      Online Resources ( blog, vlogs, forums, ingredients databases)
         a.       As you already know the natural hair care blogs, vlogs and forums are also a great resource.  A lot of what I learned is a combination of Google searches (blogs,vlogs,forums), books and natural ingredient wholesalers. 

 3.      Natural Wholesale Companies
         a.      Wholesalers are very helpful when you have questions about formulations, ingredients and explaining the purpose of each ingredient sold.  Many wholesale websites include their own formulary (recipes) and break down each ingredient explaining their purpose, shelf life, and formula compatibility ( oil-soluble vs water soluble, etc).

Start reading labels of your favorite products to see what is in them (not your ingredients to avoid list, lol!) and before you know it, you will be able to break down the products key ingredients and understand the formulation. 


Determining Freshness

The best way to determine the freshness of ingredients is color, smell and texture.  If the herbs are dry and crumbly, they may be too old.   

The freshest herbs are obviously those pulled straight from the dirt, but these are not great for formulating because they still contain water, which can cause mold in your formulations.  Because of this, dried herbs are best.  These herbs should be stored in dark cool places, preferably in amber jars w/ tight tops and labels (expiration date).  This will help the herbs maintain their potency.  If they are exposed to too much light and air, they will lose their medicinal properties and flavor.   

Herbs typically last for 1-3 years depending on what type (leaves, flowers seeds, bark or roots) and what form (Ground vs. Whole) you are using.  Each serves different purposes and are easier to use in different formulations. 

As for oils, they need to be stored in cool dark areas as well.  These too need to be stored in UV protective bottles.  Every oil has a different shelf life and can withstand different temperatures before they become rancid, so check their shelf life and label.  For example, almond oil has a shorter shelf life than most oils and will last longer if refrigerated and butters must be heated at low temperatures, otherwise they will become grainy. 

Recommended Books:

Beauty by Nature by Brigitte Mars
The Holistic Beauty Book: Over 100 Natural Recipes for Gorgeous Healthy Skin by Star Khechara
Natural Beauty Basics: Create Your Own Cosmetics and Body Care Products by Dorie Byers 
The Complete Idiot's Guide to Making Natural Beauty Products by Sally W. Trew and Zonella B. Gould

(These three are kind of technical (get from library), but give you general understanding, I really skimmed these)
Beginning Cosmetic Chemistry
Preservative Free and Self Preserving Cosmetics and Drugs Principles and Practices
Preservatives for Cosmetics

Favorite Wholesalers/Stores:

Local: Whole Foods, Indian Grocery, Health Food Stores, Farmers Markets
The Herbarie (Ingredients, Formulary, Preservatives, Antioxidant)
FNWL (Recipes Database, Herbs, Oils)
Essentials Wholesale (organic herbs, oils, butters)
Coastal Scents (mica, fair trade oil & butters)
Mountain Rose Herbs (organic; oils, clays, butters, herbs, tea, jars/containers, How-to’s, etc)
Brambleberry (DIY soap resource, oils, butters)
Texas Naturals Supply (butters, oils, formulation ingredients. Clays, etc)
Sunburst Bottles (wholesale bottle distributor)
New Direction: Aromatics

See my Formulators Supplies Needed post to get you started!

These are a few places that I have bought from and/or heard good things about and will order from in the future!

Enjoy!

Hair Detox Results

I completed my 7 day hair detox using the Terressential clay wash about a week ago, I think.  I purchased the sample kit(4, 2oz bottles), to try all the different clay washes at once so if I liked the wash, I wouldn't waste my money purchasing large bottles and not liking it. You will need 8oz of the wash to fully detox your hair in the beginning FYI.
 I would recommend you read their descriptions and suggestion for your hair type.  My hair is very dry,  thick and curly, so like they recommended, the Lavender wash and Fragrance Free were the best for my hair.  The other washes left my hair feeling dry tangled and hard, ugh!  Thank goodness once I rinsed the others out my hair was able to bounce back, but once rinsed out, my hair still felt better than after any commercial shampoo I have ever used.

I followed up each wash by simply applying shea oil or a shea oil & castor oil combo from root to end.  Because I was washing my hair daily, I didn't really bother with styling, so I just took several sections of my hair and lightly french twisted the hair to stretch out my natural curl pattern, but not to disturb the curls.  I then tied my hair up with a satin scarf. 


RESULTS:
Pics coming soon, I keep taking pics and not liking them, lol!

My hair was soooo soft, shiny and moisturized all week.  It was wonderful!  The hair in the front of head is even starting to form curls again.  Before, it would always stay straight or wave up and look fuzzy no matter what product I applied, while the rest of my hair curled up, smh!  

I have noticed  some hairs popping as I finger comb, but that may be due to the fact I don't have any more synthetic ingredients holding damaged hair together.  I may start doing protein treatments or just see what happens after my next henna treatment.  We shall see!

Basically, I think I'm in love, lol!!  I feel like the clay has lifted all the product off my hair and revealed it's true luster.  My hair was always so dull before, but not anymore!!

So, this is a DIY blog right?

If you don't want to shell out the money for the bottles or just want to give this recipe a try, then just buy you some bentonite clay, essential oils and aloe vera juice/gel.  See here for sample recipe.  There is no shame here, I will be ordering bulk organic bentonite clay and rhassoul clay to mix myself from now own.  It's cheaper and fun to me, lol!  This way I can make my own variations using hydrosols, EO"S, extracts, and tea infusions,etc.  A lbs of organic bentonite clay costs about $6 and rhassoul clay $9. 


PS, I have stuff to get rid of, see here for the list and let me know if your interested!

Enjoy!

Clay Washing

Clay washing is good for those who do not use a lot of silicone's and products.  It will not remove a bunch of product build up, however it serves as a hair and scalp detox, like a face mask.

Benefits:

• Conditioner
• Adds shine
• removes impuries from the scalp and hair

So, I was on a vlog and they mention a clay wash they used.  So, I went to website and long story short, the crap was expensive for a small amount and after reading ingredients, decided I could make it myself.

Anyhoo, I will be trying this eventually after I finish my  1 month henna challenge!

 I have anotherquick post about hair mud using bentonite clay, however I have read there are some concerns about its ph level and drying effects on hair, so many recommend Rhassoul Clay instead.  This clay mixes well with water, aloe juice, etc.  So the possibilities are endless.  You can mix with water, tea infusions, extracts, aloe vera juice, honey, oils and any combinations. 

Naptural85 doesn't even have to use conditioners afterwards.  I can't quite wrap my head around using no conditioner though...  I guess you can look at this method as co-washing for those who know the curly girl method....interesting!

The cost of this one bottle, you could get 1lb of this clay and get 10x the amounts of washes.  Anyhoo.  I will be trying this recipe soon!

 Instructions;

• Mix Rhassoul clay with warm water/aloe juice/hydrosol/tea infusion until it become a creamy paste
• Add Essential Oils, Oils and/or Honey ( Optional and Recommended for those with dry hair) 

If you have oily hair, warm water will do!

• Apply to hair and place a plastic cap on hair and let sit for 15 minutes and rinse!

Enjoy!

Keeping it Simple

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HI, my name is Ms. DIY and I'm a recovering product and formulating junkie, sigh!


I have learned a lot in this last year and enjoyed creating and mixing(product + ingredients) my own hair and skin care, but lately I have been wanting to keep it simple.  All these blogs, vlogs, forums etc can get so complicated and drawn out and quite frankly, my life right now can't fit all that stuff in.  I want a simple regimen, not a four step washing session that last hours, fifteen products, formulating and re-formulating, etc.  I can't buy everything someone raves about!!  Don't get me wrong, these resources are a blessing and have helped me so much, but sometimes it can become information/opinion overload.

I have ALL this crap and I just want to get rid of it all and/or use it up so I can move on, LOL! (contemplating selling a box of crap).  I spent a lot of time buying individual ingredients to formulate my own special spritz, curly pudding, leave-in, etc plus buying and experimenting with others products. 

The fact is formulating takes a lot of time, money and resources.  It's truly trial and error when formulating your products.  I bought all this crap and my hair has grown little, due to lack of moisture, proper sealing, and dye damage, inconsistent regimen, ugh.  Most of the products did little for my hair or I didn't like the feel.  I don't know about you, but I have other things to buy, other than hair stuff, I love shoes, clothes and have a personal trainer!!, LoL, I'm just saying!!

The most complicated thing I am currently doing at this time is my 1 month henna challenge, and this weekend is my last treatment, YAY!  But my hair is thanking me for it, though.  See more here about the henna challenge!

Anyhoo...

Here are some things that are quite frankly looked over and instead of buying a whole bunch of products and ingredients, you can get great results witha 1-3 products and simple ingredients that serve multiple functions as long as you have a good base aka moisturizing regimen!

Let's Keep it simple,

Water-

• It is the BEST hair refresher out there, hands down, LOL!  I bought all these ingredients, panthenol, cosmocil, veggie glycerin, Sodium lactate, extracts, etc for a daily refresher recipe and leave-in and my hair likes water, PLAIN water as a refresher followed up with a light oil/moisturizer.  Go Figure.  Just spritz some water or splash ends using your hands, while scrunching to revitalize your curls. 
• Also use it to set makeup, BAM!

Flax seeds:

• Make Flax seed Gel: Just make enough flax seed gel for a week and forget all the store bought ones and making your own with adequate preservation.  No crunch, no drying, and preservative free!  Cheap too! If you want to get fancy use a hydrosol or tea infusion for water phase...
• Grind flax seeds for facial exfoliation see recipe here
• Grind Flax seeds and mix with yogurt, apple sauce, etc for constipation

Castor Oil/Olive oil/Coconut Oil/Shea Butter and Honey [Whatever your favorite oil(s)] 

• Add to favorite conditioner for deep treatment!!
• Use oils to seal your ends and as skin moisturizer/ lip balms
• Remove Makeup
• Use honey for lip/face exfoliation
• Use it to seal your hair, add shine,
• clean your face (OCM Method) 
• make unpetroleum jelly
• remove make up, etc.

Aloe Vera Gel/ Juice

• Use as facial spritz or hair refresher
• Use gel to define curls and hold those edges
• Use as facial moisturizer
• Apply as aftershave w/ tea tree oil
• Use for sunburn and relief from skin irritation

Favorite Leave-In

• Use after shampoo sessions and when styling

Shampoo

• use monthly or 2x a week to thoroughly clean hair and scalp

Conditioner

• use for co washing and cleansing your hair & scalp in between washes
• great for those who workout

Setting Lotion

• Use to hold and smooth those twist outs, bantu-knots, etc styles.  I combine with my favorite leave in for moisture and avoiding the crunch.

See, despite all the hype, you really only need to find a few basic ingredients and products that will help you get the desired results.  Many single items will work just fine, giving you more money in your pocket, more shelf space and reduce waste.  The hair industry is a billion dollar industry based off selling a whole bunch of stuff with very little botanical, etc and/or they charge up the wazoo(sp?) because it's a niche product, that actually cost so little to make.  SMH!

Keep it simple,  All your hair needs is a simple cleanser, leave in, conditioner, sealant and styling lotion for special style sessions! 5-8 items including oils, LOL!

How do you keep it simple? or Are you a product junkie?

Note:  When I first wrote this post, I had 12 different products & ingredients in my regimen( multiple conditioners and leave-ins), not to mention the additives I had like DL Panthenol, Sodium Lactate, etc.  I have simplified it even further to about 5 ingredients; NO PRODUCTS!!!  See here.

Test The PH

One way to figure out if a product is good for your skin or hair is to test the PH level. The test range is from 0-14, with 7 being neutral.  An example of a neutral ingredient is water. This test is to see how acidic (0) or alkaline (14) a product is. Our hair is acidic and tests at a 5, so any number close to this would be best, around 4-7. Most shampoos are a seven and chemical dyes tend to be around 8-9, thus the damage. You can test the ph of your products and recipes to see if they are safe by using ph strips of digital ph monitors. I got mine from http://www.theherbarie.com/.

I see that some shampoos are testing at a 6-7 and they dry my hair out, so I probably need to find something between 4-5.5. 

Here is an article on the topic:

What is a Safe pH Level for Hair Care Products? eHow.com

Also The Natural Haven has a few educating post on ph levels too. 
Also visit Luv Naturals for great video series about this topic!!

This post is very general in a sense and I'm still learning.

Enjoy!

Herbal Hair Grease

This is for those with dry scalp and/or like to oil their scalps.  I must say, I haven't oiled my scalp really since I went natural.  This is like the hair grease that you find in drugstores minus all the petrolatum, mineral oil and other chemicals.  I made this similar to how I made the unpetroleum jelly. 

This recipe was requested by my mother, who has scalp issues and loves her hair grease.  Plus she was tired of hearing me talk about the petrolatum in things and said I should just make her something.  She just wanted a hair grease with tea tree oil, but I had to add more herbal benefits, since I've had these herbs for months and haven't really used them.  ( See links for each herbs benefits)


I made  4oz jar to try it out.


Formula:

Phase 1

Jojoba Oil   23.5%
Castor Oil   24%
Shea Oil      23.4%
Beeswax     3%
Vitamin E Oil 1%
Olive Oil  Infusion(nettle & hibiscus)  23.4%

Phase 2

Preservative  .5%
Rosemary Extract  .3%
Tea Tree Oil   .3%

At the last minute I decided to add 6 drops of Lavender EO for smell.

Instructions:

1. Make Herbal Infusion (20% dried herbs and 80% Carrier Oil)
1. Using a double boiler gently heat the oil and herbs for 2 hours, stirring occasionally with stainless steel spoon    Make sure heat is low so as not to cook the herbs and oil, thus causing rancidity.
2. Let cool and then strain iinfusion and place in cobalt glass jar, label with date
3. Measure out each oil using a digital scale and place into stainless steel bowl.
1. For example, jojoba oil 23.4% of 4oz would = .94oz. 
4. Measure out Beeswax
5. Place Oil mixture into double boiler and add beeswax.  Let mixture heat on medium until beeswax melts.  Not too hot though
6. Measure out each part of phase 2 and place into stainless steel bowl
7. Let oil mixture cool a little and add Vitamin E Oil, Stir
8. Add Oil & beeswax mixture to Phase 2, Stir
9. Add EO if desired
10. Allow mixture too cool and place into sterilized jar.  Label with date. 

Preservative should give it shelf life, but I did not have this officially tested by a chemist. 

Voila!

After using this grease for the past few days, I must say I like the feel, but it lacks staying power like the petroleum laden ones you find at beauty supply stores, etc.  This means you just have to apply daily or every other day depending on your scalp.  It gives the scalp a very soothing feel and tingle(tea tree oil).  I have been using it to keep my hair moist, while wearing a protective style and sealing the ends of my braids. 

I will be changing the formula around next time for for staying power though!!  I must say I am very surprised by this recipe and would have never thought to make it, if it weren't for my mother...

Enjoy!!!
     

Neem Oil

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Neem Oil has a lot of benefits for the skin and hair.  It does have a strong smell though, so users beware.  Here are some of the benefits of neem oil.  Because of the smell, I will only be using it in my OCM at about 10%.

Info Source- http://www.discoverneem.com/

• Relieves dry skin.
• It soothes itchiness, redness and irritation.
• It improves general skin health and immunity, combating bacterial infections, as in acne, boils and ulcers.
• anti-bacterial
• anti-viral
• anti-septic
• anti-diabetic
• anti-fungal
• blood-purifying
• spermicidal
• Psoriasis
• Eczema
• Head Lice
• Brittle nails and nail fungus

Hair Care

• Promotes shiny, healthy hair,
• Dryness
• Prevents premature graying
• Hair Loss

Enjoy!

Natural Deodorants & Anti-Perspirant

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If you are trying to become more natural in your daily regimen and/or have skin sensitivity issues when it comes to anti-perspirant, natural deodorants may be what your looking for.  Below you will find natural deodorants that you can use to create your own or look for in products.  But there are a few things you need to know about natural deodorants:

• Deodorants vs Anti-Perspirant
• Natural deodorants will not last 24 hrs depending on person so you will need to refresh during the day
• You may stink the first week as your body adjusts

Essential Oils- Create you own blends
Information Source
Clary Sage - Nutty, musky and herbaceous, astringent, deodorant, aphrodisiac

Eucalyptus- Strong, woody and camphor-like; analgesic, antibiotic, anti-fungal, deodorizing

Frankincense- Clean, dry, woody, fruity, pepper; anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, astringent, antibacterial

Grapefruit - Citrus and floral; antiseptic, astringent, bactericidal

Lavender - Fresh, herbaceous and floral; anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, deodorant

Lemon - Clean, citrus, sugary, spicy; antibiotic, antimicrobial, antiseptic, astringent, bactericidal

Myrrh- Hot, smoky, herbaceous; anti-fungal, anti-inflammatory, antimicrobial, antiseptic, astringent

Patchouli- Earthy, smoky, spicy, and musky; antibiotic, antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, anti-fungal, antimicrobial, helps eliminate toxins

Peppermint  - Fresh, minty and herbaceous; analgesic, anesthetic (mild), antibiotic, antidepressant, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, astringent

Rosemary  - Strong, fresh and woody; antimicrobial, antioxidant, antiseptic, aphrodisiac, astringent

Sandalwood - Soft, sweet, woody and balsamic; antiseptic, aphrodisiac, astringent, bactericidal, calming

Sweet Orange- Sweet, sugary and citrus; antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, bactericidal, fungicidal
Tea Tree Oil- Fresh and camphor-like; antibacterial, antibiotic, anti-inflammatory, antiseptic, fungicidal

Ylang Ylang - Very sweet, floral, balsamic and spicy; antiseptic

Sodium Bicarbonate (Baking Soda)- helps with sweat absorption

Corn Starch- assists with sweat absorption

Alcohol wipes-  quick wipe will help refresh, since stink is a result of bacterial growth

Another popular natural deodorant is deodorant crystals.  They are very popular. 

You can use the EOs and "anti-perspirant"  to create your own deodorants.  You can use coconut oil, olive oil, aloe butter, etc to make application easier and feel like the traditional antiperspirants  sticks we are used to as well.

Enjoy!

Making Your own Hydrosol

Uses:

Skin care

Aromatherapy

Hair Care Recipes

Facial Toner

Facial Refresher

Use it in as your water phase in recipes

Emulsifiers

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An emulsifier is the ingredient used in lotions and creams, lipsticks, balms, etc that combine water and oil.  As you know water and oil are not soluble (will not mix on their own).  I know you all remember those science fairs with the jugs of oil and water to demonstrate that oil and water do not mix.  Well the ingredients that make your lotions and creams possible are emulsifiers. 

Emulsifiers enable the oil and water to stay together enabling your oils to be surrounded by water, thus creating a cream.   To make an emulsion you need to divide your recipe into two phases, the oil and water phase.  Place all ingredients in their respective phases and heat each phase.  Depending on if you are doing a oil in water or a water in oil emulsion, you will had the second phase slowly to the first while continuously mixing. 

If you mess up one of part ( temperature, emulsifier,mixing) of the process,  your emulsion will not work. 

Here are some Emulsifiers, but every provider will have their own list/names and descriptions.

• Candilla Wax
• Beeswax
• Polowax - Emulsifying Wax NF
• Acacia gum
• Oliwax
• Jojoba Esters

Some give your products different feels/benefits, but it depends on what your looking for.  For example I read that if you want your lotion to have that greasy feel use beeswax, but if not you should use Polowax. 

You can also use co-emulsifiers to make your formulation more stable.

Examples ( but there are plenty more)

• Borax w/ Beeswax
• Cetyl Alcohol
• Cetearyl Alcohol

Enjoy!

Formulators Supplies Needed

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Suggested thing you'll need to formulate

Stainless Steel Spoons
Stainless Steel Bowls
Stainless Steel Double Boiler/ Pyrex Double Boiler(heat resistant)
Digital Scale (0.1 gram measurements)
Patience
Glass Bowl
Cheese Cloth/Strainer/Stainless Steel Tea Infuser
Notebook for Formula & Notes
Pyrex measuring cups
Glass Storage Jars (cobalt/amber depending on ingredients)
Plastic bottles/jars  (cobalt/amber depending on ingredients)
Cleaning Supplies
Ph test strips
Thermometer
Coffee Grinder/Food Processor
Whisk
Stick Blender
Gloves
Labeling System
Cool Dry Storage Place
Oven/ Microwave/Drying Cupboard
Ziploc bags
Large pot
Raw Ingredients!!

Herbal Extracts

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Another way to use herbs and utilize their benefits in your formulations are extracts.  There are three different types of herbal extracts.

Alcohol Based Extracts/Tinctures

These extracts are made using 80 proof or higher grain alcohol and herbs.  These types of extract are used for medicinal purposes i.e digestion,acne, etc.  They are to be ingested by blending into your beverages or even just taking the drops.  These are the types of extracts you will typically find in Whole foods and other health food stores if not marked otherwise.  Shelf life is estimated to 1-2 yrs and should be stored in cobalt/amber glass jars. 

These types of extract are NOT to be used for most cosmetic applications.

Glycerin Based Extracts

These extracts are water soluble and can be used in the water phase of cosmetics.  They are also good for giving to children, those sensitive to alcohol etc.  The self life of these extracts are much shorter and should be used within 6 months.

Apple Cider Vinegar Based Extracts

These extracts can be used for herbal hair rinses or added to facial mud masks.  They also have a very short and should be used within a week.

When purchasing extracts pay attention to if they are made with alcohol and are water soluble or oil soluble for your formulations. 

Enjoy!

Good Manufacturing Practices (GMP)

 

Not all this applies to mixologists, but you can use some of these GMP's as guidleines for protecting yourself and products from unecessary contamination, etc.  This is good knowledge to have if you just make personal products and escpecially if you sell your products.

Enjoy!

Article Source

Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) Guidelines/Inspection Checklist

February 12, 1997; Updated April 24, 2008
The Federal Food, Drug and Cosmetic Act¹ prohibits the introduction or delivery for introduction into interstate commerce of cosmetics that are adulterated or misbranded (Sec. 301).
A cosmetic may be deemed adulterated (Sec. 601) for essentially four reasons, namely:

1. It may be injurious to users under conditions of customary use because it contains, or its container is composed of, a potentially harmful substance.
2. It contains filth.
3. It contains a non-permitted, or in some instances non-certified, color additive.
4. It is manufactured or held under insanitary conditions whereby it may have become injurious to users or contaminated with filth.

A cosmetic may be deemed misbranded (Sec. 602) for reasons of:

1. False or misleading labeling.
2. Failure to state prominently and conspicuously any information required by or under authority of this act.
3. Misleading container presentation or fill.

To determine whether cosmetic firms manufacture, hold or deliver for introduction into interstate commerce cosmetics that are adulterated or misbranded, and to prevent these and other practices violating Sec. 301 of the FD&C Act, the law gives the agency the authority to enter the establishments of such firms and inspect their facilities as well as all pertinent equipment, finished and unfinished materials, containers and labeling therein. See Sec. 704(a) of the FD&C Act.
Rigorous adherence to good manufacturing practice minimizes the risk of adulteration or misbranding of cosmetics. The following cosmetic establishment instructions, excerpted from FDA's Inspection Operations Manual, may serve as guidelines for effective self-inspection. A good inspection score means that an establishment follows good manufacturing practice.

Guidelines

1. Building and Facilities. Check whether
   1. Buildings used in the manufacture or storage of cosmetics are of suitable size, design and construction to permit unobstructed placement of equipment, orderly storage of materials, sanitary operation, and proper cleaning and maintenance.
   2. Floors, walls and ceilings are constructed of smooth, easily cleanable surfaces and are kept clean and in good repair.
   3. Fixtures, ducts and pipes are installed in such a manner that drip or condensate does not contaminate cosmetic materials, utensils, cosmetic contact surfaces of equipment, or finished products in bulk.
   4. Lighting and ventilation are sufficient for the intended operation and comfort of personnel.
   5. Water supply, washing and toilet facilities, floor drainage and sewage system are adequate for sanitary operation and cleaning of facilities, equipment and utensils, as well as to satisfy employee needs and facilitate personal cleanliness.
2. Equipment. Check whether:
   1. Equipment and utensils used in processing, holding, transferring and filling are of appropriate design, material and workmanship to prevent corrosion, buildup of material, or adulteration with lubricants, dirt or sanitizing agent.
   2. Utensils, transfer piping and cosmetic contact surfaces of equipment are well-maintained and clean and are sanitized at appropriate intervals.
   3. Cleaned and sanitized portable equipment and utensils are stored and located, and cosmetic contact surfaces of equipment are covered, in a manner that protects them from splash, dust or other contamination.
3. Personnel. Check whether:
   1. The personnel supervising or performing the manufacture or control of cosmetics has the education, training and/or experience to perform the assigned functions.
   2. Persons coming into direct contact with cosmetic materials, finished products in bulk or cosmetic contact surfaces, to the extent necessary to prevent adulteration of cosmetic products, wear appropriate outer garments, gloves, hair restraints etc., and maintain adequate personal cleanliness.
   3. Consumption of food or drink, or use of tobacco is restricted to appropriately designated areas.
4. Raw Materials. Check whether:
   1. Raw materials and primary packaging materials are stored and handled in a manner which prevents their mix-up, contamination with microorganisms or other chemicals, or decomposition from exposure to excessive heat, cold, sunlight or moisture.
   2. Containers of materials are closed, and bagged or boxed materials are stored off the floor.
   3. Containers of materials are labeled with respect to identity, lot identification and control status.
   4. Materials are sampled and tested or examined in conformance with procedures assuring the absence of contamination with filth, microorganisms or other extraneous substances to the extent necessary to prevent adulteration of finished products. Pay particular attention to materials of animal or vegetable origin and those used in the manufacture of cosmetics by cold processing methods with respect to contamination with filth or microorganisms.
   5. Materials not meeting acceptance specifications are properly identified and controlled to prevent their use in cosmetics.
5. Production. Check whether manufacturing and control have been established and written instructions, i.e., formulations, processing, transfer and filling instructions, in-process control methods etc., are being maintained. Determine whether such procedures require that:
   1. The equipment for processing, transfer and filling the utensils, and the containers for holding raw and bulk materials are clean, in good repair and in sanitary condition.
   2. Only approved materials are used.
   3. Samples are taken, as appropriate, during and/or after processing, transfer or filling for testing for adequacy of mixing or other forms of processing, absence of hazardous microorganisms or chemical contaminants, and compliance with any other acceptance specification.
   4. Weighing and measuring of raw materials is checked by a second person, and containers holding the materials are properly identified.
   5. Major equipment, transfer lines, containers and tanks are used for processing, filling or holding cosmetics are identified to indicate contents, batch designation, control status and other pertinent information.
   6. Labels are examined for identity before labeling operations to avoid mix-up.
   7. The equipment for processing, holding, transferring and filling of batch is labeled regarding identity, batch identification and control status.
   8. Packages of finished products bear permanent code marks.
   9. Returned cosmetics are examined for deterioration or contamination.
6. Laboratory Controls. Check whether:
   1. Raw materials, in-process samples and finished products are tested or examined to verify their identity and determine their compliance with specifications for physical and chemical properties, microbial contamination, and hazardous or other unwanted chemical contaminants.
   2. Reserve samples of approved lots or batches of raw materials and finished products are retained for the specified time period, are stored under conditions that protect them from contamination or deterioration, and are retested for continued compliance with established acceptance specifications.
   3. The water supply, particularly the water used as a cosmetic ingredient, is tested regularly for conformance with chemical-analytical and microbiological specifications.
   4. Fresh as well as retained samples of finished products are tested for adequacy of preservation against microbial contamination which may occur user reasonably foreseeable condition of storage and consumer use.
7. Records. Check whether control records are maintained of:
   1. Raw materials and primary packaging materials, documenting disposition of rejected materials.
   2. Manufacturing of batches, documenting the:
      1. Kinds, lots and quantities of material used.
      2. Processing, handling, transferring, holding and filling.
      3. Sampling, controlling, adjusting and reworking.
      4. Code marks of batches and finished products.
   3. Finished products, documenting sampling, individual laboratory controls, test results and control status.
   4. Distribution, documenting initial interstate shipment, code marks and consignees.
8. Labeling. Check whether the labels of the immediate and outer container bear:
   1. On the principal display panel:
      1. In addition to the name of the product, the statements of identity and net contents,
      2. The statement "Warning--The safety of this product has not been determined" if the safety of the respective product has not adequately been substantiated. Determine whether and what toxicological and/or other testing the firm has conducted to substantiate the safety of its products. See 21 CFR 740.10.
   2. On the information panel:
      1. The name and address of the firm manufacturing the product or introducing it into interstate commerce.
      2. the list of ingredients (only on outer container) if intended for sale or customarily sold to consumers for consumption at home.
      3. The warning statement(s) required at 21 CFR 740.11, 740.12 and 740.17.
      4. Any other warning statement necessary or appropriate to prevent a health hazard. Determine the health hazard or their basis for a warning statement.
      5. Any direction for safe use of product.
      6. In case of a hair dye product, the caution statement of Sec. 601(a) of the Act and appropriate directions for preliminary patch testing. This warning only applies to coal-tar hair dyes which, if so labeled, are then exempted from the adulteration provision of the Act.
9. Complaints. Check whether the firm maintains a consumer complaint file and determine:
   1. The kind and severity of each reported injury and the body part involved.
   2. The product associated with each injury, including the manufacturer and code number.
   3. The medical treatment involved, if any, including the name of the attending physician..
   4. The name(s) and location(s) of any poison control center, government agency, physician's group etc., to whom formula information and/or toxicity data are provided.
10. Other. Check whether the firm is:
    1. Participating in the program of voluntary registration of:
       1. Cosmetic manufacturing establishments (21 CFR 710).
       2. Cosmetic product ingredient and cosmetic raw material composition statements (21 CFR 720).
    2. Using a color additive which is not listed for use in cosmetics (21 CFR 73, 74, and 82) or which is not certified (21 CFR 80).
    3. Using a prohibited cosmetic ingredient (21 CFR 700).

For important information on international approaches to Good Manufacturing Practice, please refer to International Cooperation on Cosmetic Regulation Outcome of Meeting², September 26-28, 2007.

Formulating Your Recipes

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Have you ever found a recipe which yielded to much, to little or you couldn't figure out how much it would yield at all?  I know I have.  Well, here is the answer to your question/confusion, formulating.  If you know this already, why didn't you share this information with me, it would have been helpful, LoL!

The benefits of formulating your recipes is that you can change how much you want to make without compromising the recipe and getting your desired recipe/results every time. 

Steps to formulating your recipes:

1. Figure out what you are trying to make
2. Find the desired ingredients
3. Separate the ingredients into separate phases (water, oil, preservative & additives)
4. Divide each ingredient by weight percentages.  When added up your recipe/formula should equal 100%  (online natural vendors will tell you recommended usage percentages for each ingredient)
5. Choose desired amount total and multiply by each ingredients percentage
6. Test out formula and see what needs to be adjusted next time

Note:  The only way to know preservative is working effectively is to have it tested. And the best way to make cosmetic recipe is by weight, not volume or fluid measurements.

Here is an example:
Un-Petroleum Jelly

Ingredients:

Phase 1
Castor Oil  49.05%
Coconut Oil  49.05&
Beeswax  .3%

Phase 2
Grapefruit Seed Extract .2%
Hibiscus Extract  .5%
Rosemary Antioxidant Extract  .2%
Optiphen  .5%
Essential Oil  .2%

So if I was making 8 oz un-petroleum jelly I would need .4905 x 8 = 3.924 ounces of Castor oil (weight).

If you have a recipe that you have already divided by fluid measurements, etc. you will need to measure out each individual ingredient and figure out it's weight.  After you figure out the weight of each ingredient add it up to figure out the total weight of your recipe.  To figure out the ingredient percentages, take each ingredients weight and divide it by the total recipe weight. 

For example: (this example, the weight is not the actual recipe weights, I just used example numbers to explain)

Fluid measurements converted to weight:

Castor Oil  1/4 cup          = 2.5 ounces weighted
Coconut Oil  1/4 cup      = 2 ounces weighted
Beeswax                          = 1 ounce (weight)
Total weight                    = 5.5 ounces

Recipe in Formula: ( remember to round)

Castor Oil       2.5oz /5.5oz =  45%
Coconut Oil     2oz.5.5oz = 37%
Beeswax         1oz/ 5.5oz = 18%
Total                                = 100%

Voila!

Importance of Correct Measurements Article

Mixologists and DIY Products Safety

During my daily perusal of natural hair and skin care recipes and websites, I have come across my share of recipes that mention no preservation literature, products for sell, etc.  Now I support all those who enjoy creating their own products and creating a business for themselves.  But I can't help but wonder, if these people are just making products and selling them without a thought about product efficacy, allergies, mold, bacteria, SAFETY,etc.  I know I wasn't until I really began to research the complexities of creating my own products.  And even then I was not trying to sell my recipes.  I am no chemist, so when pH levels and chemical reactions between ingredients occur....I don't know all this info, lol and neither does your average Joe/Jane.

Now, I know that FDA regulations can mean little to some, and many of the ingredients approved by the FDA are harmful and cause adverse reactions in many, but they do require that people follow some sort of rules to making their products and safely selling them.  There needs to be some regulation of selling products, including natural/organic regulations.  It can be from proper labeling(nut allergies,etc), testing how it stands up to daily usage, shelf life, etc.  I am not saying conform to all chemical crap that the FDA currently approves, but be knowledgeable of your product in which you are selling. 

I am simply put an advocate of rules ( I like structure), so as the natural community grows and we (society) adjust our thinking to more organic ways of production, life, health etc, I hope that regulations improve and alternatives are discovered.  We as consumers need to ask more questions.  Making your own natural skin and hair care is not new, plain and simple, but we do need to educate ourselves, especially if you want to try and sell it.  In the long run it's better for you and your potential customers. 

I have personally witnessed a person creating their concoctions and given the time that they were researching their products and the time that they began offering them for sell, they could not have possibly had them tested for safety let alone efficacy.  Did you test that recipe out before you made claims of it;s ability to do this or that, LOL people are a trip, anyhoo. No one formulation is going to work with any given preservative whether it be natural or synthetic. 

I mean there are probably many sellers out there who haven't even considered the shelf life of their products let alone know how to properly label them and know the efficacy of their preservative. 

Any product with water is highly prone to bacterial growth, putting your hands in products spread germs & bacteria, storing in bathroom ( warm moist area), etc.  For this reason I am making smaller amounts.  My personal rules are use natural preservatives and antioxidants, avoid large amounts of water based products, and try to minimize hand in jars.  I only make enough oil/butter recipes to last me 1 month and oil/water for 1-2 weeks with refrigeration. 

As discussed in my previous posts about preservatives,  the only way to know if your product is effectively being preserved is to have a educated and TRAINED chemist test it and until then, there is no way you can be sure if your product is safe for sell/ use over time.

If you want to learn more or have questions, I would advise you to do some reading at http://www.herbarie.com/.  They are not only helpful, but trained people that combine science and natural methods, so you get the best of both worlds.  For example, I was recommended using a liquid germall plus, but after reading one of the ingredients hazard rating on skin deep, I became concerned.  I then went on to read some more info using a link provided by skin deep and learned that the formula for liquid germall plus was not dangerous, it's like watered down bleach if you know what I mean.  I'm still concerned and considering it, but the point is do your research and check for yourself, because all these blogs and forums are run by your average Joe/Jane who read other peoples blogs and take it as fact.  Check out The Natural Haven too, she discusses science and natural methods and their benefits and vice versa. 
This post is not meant to offend anyone and I support my fellow mixologists, but be safe, the US is the most litigious country out there and I think this needed to be said.

Enjoy!

Wild African Honey

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I recently Purchased some Wild African Honey from Coastal Scents, so here is some info on it.  I have not yet used it, but looking forward to trying it!

It has the same benefits as RAW Honey, but this honey is from Africa and has not gone through any chemical processes, etc, thus leaving a lot of minerals, vitamins, amino acid, etc intact and beneficial to our skin and hair.  When it comes to African honey, the darker the better, so do not be afraid of the color difference.


Skin Care & Hair Uses

• Toning
• Moisturizing
• Healing
• Humectant
• Natural Antioxidant
• Anti-Microbial growth prevention

Basically Wild African Honey has all the same benefits of the RAW Honey you purchase at your local health food stores, PLUS the benefits of minerals, vitamins, amino acid, etc!!

I will be using this just as I have used RAW Honey in my Cleansing Grains, Shea Butter Hot Oil Treatment, etc!!!


Enjoy!